Trulli Unforgettable: A Road Trip Across Puglia
I’ve just returned home from Puglia, and I’m still waking up to memories of whitewashed towns covered in sunflowers, rugged landscapes where olive trees cling to rocky slopes, and cliffs that drop dramatically into the Adriatic.
Puglia, the ‘heel of Italy” is where many Italians vacation during their August holidays. Locals fill the piazzas on summer nights, booking seaside lidos, and tucking into long seafood lunches by the water. Exploring Puglia feels like a breath of fresh air full of sites, tastes and experiences, yet unspoiled by mass tourism.
Interest in this region has been growing steadily over the past few years. For travelers who’ve already visited Rome, Tuscany, or Amalfi, a Puglia road trip itinerary offers something different: an experience that is still deeply local, with landscapes and towns that feel untouched and true.
Getting to Puglia
The easiest way to reach the region is through its two main airports. Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport is the gateway to northern Puglia and a perfect starting point for a driving route, while Brindisi Airport works best if you plan to explore Lecce and the southern Salento peninsula.
If you’re traveling from the states, consider spending a few days in Rome first, before flying south. Direct flights from JFK to Bari have started on a seasonal basis, but they are limited to Tuesdays during the summer. We recommend flying into Rome on the day of your choice and spending a few days there. From Rome, you can quickly fly into Puglia or you can take the fast train "Frecciarossa” from Rome’s main station (Termini) into Bari. This was the route I chose to take. The journey takes a pleasant 4.5 hours with Wifi and snacks provided on board.
Begin in Bari
My road trip began in Bari, a city that manages to feel soulful and full of life. In Bari Vecchia, women still make orecchiette by hand at their doorsteps, while the Basilica di San Nicola draws pilgrims from around the world. Here you can join a local nonna as she teaches the art of making orecchiette, the small ear-shaped pasta that is the pride of the region. From kneading dough to rolling pasta by hand, the experience is as much about tradition and family as it is about food. The meal that follows, often paired with simple sauces of local greens or tomatoes, is the ultimate reward.
After picking up my rental car, it was off to explore!
Monopoli: The first stop
“The energy of Monopoli felt like the warm embrace of an Italian nonna”
The coast south of Bari is dotted with towns that seem made for postcards. The first stop- Monopoli, with its pastel facades and harbor alive with fishing boats, was the perfect place to slow down. To me, the energy of Monopoli felt like the warm embrace of an Italian nonna. It’s welcoming streets are lined with sunflower strings, laundry handing from whitewashed buildings and breathtaking baroque style churches around every corner.
Polignano a Mare: time for some time in the sea
A city that inspired “Volare”
By this time, I was itching to enjoy the stunning Adriatic sea, so it was time for a private boat tour with swim stops. We started off the coast of Polignano a Mare the birthplace of Domenico Modugno, the beloved singer of Volare. A statue of him, arms outstretched toward the horizon, stands at the edge of town, an iconic reminder of the joy and romance that seem to permeate this coastline.
Watching the sun sink into the Adriatic from the cliffs of Polignano a Mare is an experience you’ll never forget and there may be no more dramatic spot to do it than Grotta Palazzese. Set inside a natural cave carved into the rock, this restaurant lets you dine suspended above the sea, with waves echoing beneath you and a glass of wine in hand. While the views are nothing short of spectacular, the food has earned mixed reviews. If you go, go for the atmosphere and the photographs. It can still be a magical evening if you know what to expect.
Alberobello: a fairytale escape
Trulli, madly, deeply
Feeling refreshed from a day on the sea, it was time to explore treasures on land. Alberobello, with its UNESCO-protected trulli houses, looked like something out of a fairytale. Even on a cloudy day (the only one of the trip), the Trulli shined. The experience of walking among these conical homes is unlike anything else in Italy. Inside these dreamy structures, you’ll find handcrafted ceramics, textiles and other speical products. I didn’t escape without purchasing some hand-painted ceramic espresso cups to remind me of the trip. Dinner at Trattoria Terra Madre, where everything is grown just steps from the kitchen, remains one of my favorite meals of the trip.
Ostuni: a hilltop gem
La Citta Bianca
Continuing South, we reached Ostuni, the “White City,” which rises like a dream above the plains. From the cathedral down to the winding alleys, it glows in a way that no photo can capture. A local friend recommended “Burro” for breakfast. This modern cafe offered a delicious brioche with fresh ricotta and fruit. Then, it was off to the local market full of fresh produce.
Days were spent on Puglias beaches. One of the most spectacular is Torre Guaceto, a protected marine reserve about twenty minutes from Ostuni. Here the sand is soft, the water clear and shallow, and the atmosphere blissfully unspoiled. Cars are left at the edge of the park and a little train takes you through dunes and fields before delivering you to the shore. It feels like a secret, even though it’s beloved by locals.
Matera: one of the world’s oldest cities
Explore ancient streets
Although Matera technically belongs to the Basilicata region and not Puglia, it sits right on the border and it makes the perfect final stop before looping back to Bari at the end of a road trip. As one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Matera rises out of a rugged, mountainous landscape, its cliffs carved with cave dwellings known as the Sassi. Once abandoned in the 1950s and labeled the “shame of Italy,” the city has undergone a remarkable transformation. Today it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a thriving cultural destination, and an evocative film set featured in everything from Passion of the Christ to James Bond.
Normally, I like to discover a city by wandering its streets and striking up conversations with locals, but in Matera I recommend making an exception. The history here is so rich and layered that a guide brings it to life in a way wandering alone simply can’t. English-speaking guides lead you into hidden corners of the Sassi, sharing stories that connect the past with the present, from rock-hewn churches to the rhythms of daily life in the caves.
Ending your Puglia journey in Matera feels right: it’s both an extension of the region’s rugged charm and a time capsule of Italy’s deeper history. After days of whitewashed towns, trulli, and turquoise seas, Matera adds another layer, an unforgettable finale before your return to Bari.
Experiencing the Real Puglia
To explore Puglia off the beaten path is to step into a world where tradition still guides daily life. Whether you are rolling pasta with a nonna, dining in a masseria, shopping at a market, or staying in a centuries-old trullo, you will find that the region’s true beauty lies in its authenticity. Here, the real Puglia reveals itself not in grand gestures, but in the simple, enduring pleasures of living well. A road trip here isn’t about rushing from sight to sight. It’s about pausing for long lunches, swimming in hidden coves, exploring towns at twilight. It’s about the small details that linger long after you leave. For me, that’s what made it unforgettable. Or rather, Trulli Unforgettable.
Rent a Villa in Puglia
Make sure that you have a comfortable vacation home to return to after exploring Puglia. Our vacation rentals in Puglia include a mix of classic and modern styles. Whether you want an intimate romantic getaway or a family reunion, we have the perfect selection of villas. Contact us to begin planning your Puglia villa vacation today.
Puglia, the ‘heel of Italy” is where many Italians vacation during their August holidays. Locals fill the piazzas on summer nights, booking seaside lidos, and tucking into long seafood lunches by the water. Exploring Puglia feels like a breath of fresh air - full of sites, tastes and experiences, yet unspoiled by mass tourism.