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Day 1, Saturday Arrive and get settled in your rental
property, explore your nearby town or village's shops, markets, and potential
restaurants and wineries. Day 2, Sunday Siena: the Campo
and the Cathedral and the Museum of the Cathedral. That will take a morning. The
rest of the day, just hang out and enjoy the spectacle or go on south to Montalcino,
Pienza and Lucignano d'Asso. Day 3, Monday Explore the Chianti
countryside by driving on the SS222 wine route through Greve, Panzano, Castellina
in Chianti toward Siena, visiting villages along the way. Stop at some of the
vineyards recommended in our Restaurant Guide and plan a spontaneous driving tour
around them using your Chianti vineyard map. Pick up some wine for your villa.
The surprising thing about Chianti is that even in the height of the summer, those
roads with scenery so beautiful it will make you weep aren't at all crowded. Visit
the abbey Badia a Passignano. Day 4, Tuesday Florence -
park for free at the Piazzale Michelangelo. Explore the church of San Miniato
al Monte, then walk down to the Arno. Reserve in advance at the Uffizi and plan
your day around your reservation there. Don't miss the very moving Masaccios at
Santa Maria del Carmine. Also see: Florence Cathedral, Baptistery, and Campanile.
Day 5, Wednesday San Gimignano and Volterra and, if you
have time, Massa Marittima whose principal piazza is not to be believed. Also,
the direct north-south drive between these two towns for the Valle del Diavolo
(Valley of the Devil), and you'll see why. Disturbing and unforgettable.
Day 6, Thursday A day at the beach in season at Forte dei Marmi
or Lido di Camaoire. Or hike the Cinqueterre an hour to the north of Lucca with
a boat trip from Lerici or Portovenere. Hike south to north as far as you want
and take the boat back. Stop at the Carrara Marble quarries on your way back to
see where Michelangelo got his white marble for what you will see tomorrow!
Day 7, Friday Back to Florence - Pre-reserve to see Michelangelo's
David and the (unfinished?) slaves at the Accademia and plan your day around this
wonderful small museum. Just before or after the Accademia, visit San Marco, which
is across the square to see the Fra Angelico paintings in the former cells of
the monks. Unforgettable. Take a walk around the medieval streets of the city
stopping at the open-air market of Sant'Ambrogio, with lunch in the little "diner"
in the market itself. And if you still have time, visit the marvelous Bargello.
Day 8, Saturday Pistoia - one of the real undiscovered jewels
of Italy, full of charming streets dating from the Middle Ages and an unusual
number of beautiful Romanesque churches. Get a detailed guidebook for Pistoia
or stop at the tourist office. Be sure to visit the delightful open-air market
in medieval Piazza della Sala, plus the Cathedral (with the St. James altar, a
masterpiece of silverwork); the Baptistery; the cathedral square as a whole; and
the Ospedale del Ceppo, gorgeous and (by us, at least) totally unexpected. Afternoon
at the Medici villa of Poggio a Caiano, with a stop at Carmignano to see Pontormo's
Visitation, one of the most beautiful paintings in existence. Day
9, Sunday Three unforgettable abbeys with equally unforgettable scenery
surrounding: San Galgano, Monte Oliveto Maggiore, and Sant'Antimo, plus atmospheric
Bagno Vignoni, immortalized by Tarkovsky. Day 10, Monday
A day in Arezzo, one of Tuscany's loveliest, most civilized, most unvisited cities:
see the Piero della Francescas, of course, but also the Piazza Grande, the church
of Santa Maria della Pieve (one of our favorites in all Italy), and the other
little churches and civic buildings around the city, not to mention the first-class
antique shops. Shoppers will also want to hit the Prada Outlet in Montevarchi,
and the other outlet stores nearby. Day 11, Tuesday Pisa
- the Cathedral Square and a walk along the Arno in the morning. Lunch in Lucca
followed by a walk around the medieval streets of that elegant small city, birthplace
of Puccini. Combine with the beach if you are so inclined. Day 12,
Wednesday Southeastern Tuscany and Cortona, home to Under the Tuscan
Sun and one of our favorite towns. Go early enough to see the Museo Diocesano
before it closes for lunch. More outlet shopping, if you forgot to buy anything.
Day 13, Thursday Fiesole, Settignano, and at least one or
two of the Medici villas/gardens in the area Day 14, Friday
Four Southern Tuscan hilltown jewels: San Quirico d'Orcia, Montepulciano, Pienza,
and Montalcino Day 15 Depart and regret not having done
even half the above What have we left out? 90 percent of Florence, the
cathedral of Prato, the Mugello area north of Florence and the Casentino to the
east of Florence: Poppi, Camaldoli, La Verna, and, especially, Gropina, one of
our favorite churches in Italy. Our thanks to our
friend and colleague, Daniel Morneau, for researching and writing this itinerary.
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