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1, Saturday Arrive and get settled in your rental property, explore your
nearby town or village's shops, markets, and potential restaurants and wineries.
Day 2, Sunday Siena: the Campo and the Cathedral and the
Museum of the Cathedral. That will take a morning. The rest of the day, just hang
out and enjoy the spectacle or go on south to Montalcino, Pienza and Lucignano
d'Asso. Day 3, Monday Explore the Chianti countryside by
driving on the SS222 wine route through Greve, Panzano, Castellina in Chianti
toward Siena, visiting villages along the way. Stop at some of the vineyards recommended
in our Restaurant Guide and plan a spontaneous driving tour around them using
your Chianti vineyard map. Pick up some wine for your villa. The surprising thing
about Chianti is that even in the height of the summer, those roads with scenery
so beautiful it will make you weep aren't at all crowded. Visit the abbey Badia
a Passignano. Day 4, Tuesday Florence - park for free at
the Piazzale Michelangelo. Explore the church of San Miniato al Monte, then walk
down to the Arno. Reserve in advance at the Uffizi and plan your day around your
reservation there. Don't miss the very moving Masaccios at Santa Maria del Carmine.
Also see: Florence Cathedral, Baptistery, and Campanile. Day 5, Wednesday
San Gimignano and Volterra and, if you have time, Massa Marittima whose principal
piazza is not to be believed. Also, the direct north-south drive between these
two towns for the Valle del Diavolo (Valley of the Devil), and you'll see why.
Disturbing and unforgettable. Day 6, Thursday A day at the
beach in season at Forte dei Marmi or Lido di Camaoire. Or hike the Cinqueterre
an hour to the north of Lucca with a boat trip from Lerici or Portovenere. Hike
south to north as far as you want and take the boat back. Stop at the Carrara
Marble quarries on your way back to see where Michelangelo got his white marble
for what you will see tomorrow! Day 7, Friday Back to Florence
- Pre-reserve to see Michelangelo's David and the (unfinished?) slaves at the
Accademia and plan your day around this wonderful small museum. Just before or
after the Accademia, visit San Marco, which is across the square to see the Fra
Angelico paintings in the former cells of the monks. Unforgettable. Take a walk
around the medieval streets of the city stopping at the open-air market of Sant'Ambrogio,
with lunch in the little "diner" in the market itself. And if you still have time,
visit the marvelous Bargello. Day 8, Saturday Pistoia -
one of the real undiscovered jewels of Italy, full of charming streets dating
from the Middle Ages and an unusual number of beautiful Romanesque churches. Get
a detailed guidebook for Pistoia or stop at the tourist office. Be sure to visit
the delightful open-air market in medieval Piazza della Sala, plus the Cathedral
(with the St. James altar, a masterpiece of silverwork); the Baptistery; the cathedral
square as a whole; and the Ospedale del Ceppo, gorgeous and (by us, at least)
totally unexpected. Afternoon at the Medici villa of Poggio a Caiano, with a stop
at Carmignano to see Pontormo's Visitation, one of the most beautiful paintings
in existence. Day 9, Sunday Three unforgettable abbeys with
equally unforgettable scenery surrounding: San Galgano, Monte Oliveto Maggiore,
and Sant'Antimo, plus atmospheric Bagno Vignoni, immortalized by Tarkovsky.
Day 10, Monday A day in Arezzo, one of Tuscany's loveliest, most
civilized, most unvisited cities: see the Piero della Francescas, of course, but
also the Piazza Grande, the church of Santa Maria della Pieve (one of our favorites
in all Italy), and the other little churches and civic buildings around the city,
not to mention the first-class antique shops. Shoppers will also want to hit the
Prada Outlet in Montevarchi, and the other outlet stores nearby. Day
11, Tuesday Pisa - the Cathedral Square and a walk along the Arno in
the morning. Lunch in Lucca followed by a walk around the medieval streets of
that elegant small city, birthplace of Puccini. Combine with the beach if you
are so inclined. Day 12, Wednesday Southeastern Tuscany
and Cortona, home to Under the Tuscan Sun and one of our favorite towns. Go early
enough to see the Museo Diocesano before it closes for lunch. More outlet shopping,
if you forgot to buy anything. Day 13, Thursday Fiesole,
Settignano, and at least one or two of the Medici villas/gardens in the area
Day 14, Friday Four Southern Tuscan hilltown jewels: San Quirico
d'Orcia, Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino Day 15 Depart
and regret not having done even half the above What have we left out?
90 percent of Florence, the cathedral of Prato, the Mugello area north of Florence
and the Casentino to the east of Florence: Poppi, Camaldoli, La Verna, and, especially,
Gropina, one of our favorite churches in Italy. Our
thanks to our friend and colleague, Daniel Morneau, for researching and writing
this itinerary. |