AN EXCURSION TO CINQUETERRE

Cinqueterre —a certain music in the name seems to promise an otherworldly delight, a magical realm just a few steps removed from the everyday. And Cinqueterre does not disappoint. Draped delicately like a string of pearls across the rugged cliffs of the Ligurian Riviera, five ancient villages preserve a centuries-old way of life while welcoming visitors with open arms. This unique and enchanting chain of fishing towns, overlooking the stunning blue of the Mediterranean from a craggy Apennine cradle, has long been known as the “Five Lands” — or Cinqueterre. It is a stunning place to hike, to paint, to swim or to stop for a fresh seafood meal.

Doorways offers a choice of four approaches to your discovery of the Cinqueterre:

Stay one week in a nearby villa : The villages were available only by sea until early last century and this may still be the most beautiful way to arrive. Doorways offers many different villas within one hour by car or by rail. Most are in Lucca, just one hour south. From Lucca, drive to Lerici or Portovenere to take the boat to Riomaggiore, the southernmost village of the Cinqueterre. The boat ride itself is one of the joys of the trip as you cross first the Gulf of Poets, known as one of the most beautiful gulfs in the word.  Arriving at the dock in Riomaggiore, be ready to leap ashore.

After a look around Riomaggiore it’s time to take to the Via dell’Amore!  Part of the charm of Cinqueterre is the series of well-worn shepherds’ paths winding through the fragrant Mediterranean macchia past olive groves and vineyards (local grapes are used to make the Cinqueterre’s renowned white wine, which shares the same name).  Connecting each village to the next, the paths offer breathtaking views out over the cliffs to the sea.

This first section leading from Riomaggiore to the next village, Manarola, is the easiest and most well-known section of the trail.  Wide and smooth, the path is suitable for those who do not wish to climb, and can even accommodate a stroller.  Benches are placed at intervals along the way for resting in comfort. (There are also lights, which make an evening stroll a pleasant possibility.)

Reaching Manarola, you may wish to take advantage of an opportunity for swimming along the rocky coastline or wandering the streets of the village, which preserves the spirit of its heritage as a fishing community. Continuing the walk onward from Manarola you will find that the trail becomes progressively more difficult as one travels northward. Depending upon your party’s inclinations, you may wish to continue the walk ahead to Corniglia; from there on to Vernazza; or all the way to Monterosso al Mare. (For easy travel back and forth between the villages, it is also possible to take the train.  The train rides between villages take only a matter of minutes.)

Corniglia is known for its exceptional views over the other villages and much of the coastline.  It also offers a somewhat secluded beach (reached through an abandoned railway tunnel).  Vernazza distinguishes itself by its dramatic position on a rocky outcrop and a pleasant natural harbor below.  A challenging climb up and down leads to the northernmost village, Monterosso al Mare, with a popular beach, as well a delightful old town where visitors can enjoy the 17th-century Capuchin monastery — home to a fine painting collection — and an ancient castle.  No matter where you elect to halt your trek, you are sure to find a tasty lunch before boarding a boat back to your car. Swim in the sea, dine at Locanda Miranda in Tellaro (exquisite fish menu) and return to Lucca. 

If six people prefer to stay northwest of the Cinqueterre on the famous Italian Riviera, Doorways offers a combination rental of a skippered-yacht and Apartment in Rapallo. From Rapallo it is easy to take the train or drive to the southernmost village and spend the day walking, but you also have the choice of being skippered in your private sailing yacht to the Cinqueterre for an overnight trip. Other days can be spent exploring hidden beaches, inaccessible by car. Return home at night to regional cooking by the wife of the skipper, who is your cook and housekeeper during your stay.

Three-Day Itinerary: Since the five villages are quite remote and best reached by boat, we suggest staying in nearby Tellaro, a colorful old town overlooking the beautiful Gulf of Poets just south of Cinqueterre.  Perfect accommodations are found at the Locanda Miranda — a simple bed & breakfast with a splendid restaurant specializing in fish. The Locanda Miranda has a three-day minimum stay, with dinner and breakfast included, and the price is a great value.

Day One: Arrive in Tellaro, secure your parking spot and leave your car parked. The rest can be done on foot, by local bus or by boat. Explore the town, take a swim at the lovely beach and enjoy your balcony while waiting for your four-course meal featuring three fish courses plus dessert at the Locanda Miranda.

Day Two: The hills above Tellaro are home to an abandoned village, just waiting to be explored.  Let your hike take you as far as the port town of Lerici to check out the current boat schedules to the Cinqueterre.  Have a gelato.  You can board a bus to return to Tellaro and the Locanda. Plan your next day’s bus and boat schedule, swim in the sea and then go back to Locanda Miranda for another excellent fish dinner.

Day Three: First thing in the morning, take the short bus ride to Lerici once more and board the boat for Portovenere, where you change for Riomaggiore, Cinqueterre’s southernmost village.  The boat ride itself is one of the joys of the trip. As you stand on the deck enjoying the gentle tossing of the waves, you cannot help but feel at one with the unique natural beauty of the surroundings – mountains to the sea with steeply terraced olive groves and vineyards. Look up to find a delightful array of pastel houses that seem to tumble down the cliff side. Arriving at the dock in Riomaggiore, be ready to leap ashore.

After a look around Riomaggiore it’s time to take to the Via dell’Amore!  Part of the charm of Cinqueterre is the series of well-worn shepherds’ paths winding through the fragrant Mediterranean macchia past olive groves and vineyards (local grapes are used to make the Cinqueterre’s renowned white wine, which shares the same name).  Connecting each village to the next, the paths offer breathtaking views out over the cliffs to the sea.

This first section leading from Riomaggiore to the next village, Manarola, is the easiest and most well-known section of the trail.  Wide and smooth, the path is suitable for those who do not wish to climb, and can even accommodate a stroller.  Benches are placed at intervals along the way for resting in comfort. (There are also lights, which make an evening stroll a pleasant possibility.)

Reaching Manarola, you may wish to take advantage of an opportunity for swimming along the rocky coastline or wandering the streets of the village, which preserves the spirit of its heritage as a fishing community. Continuing the walk onward from Manarola you will find that the trail becomes progressively more difficult as one travels northward. Depending upon your party’s inclinations, you may wish to continue the walk ahead to Corniglia; from there on to Vernazza; or all the way to Monterosso al Mare. (For easy travel back and forth between the villages, it is also possible to take the train.  The train rides between villages take only a matter of minutes.)

Corniglia is known for the exceptional views it affords over the other villages and much of the coastline. It also offers a somewhat secluded beach (reached through an abandoned railway tunnel).  Vernazza distinguishes itself by its dramatic position on a rocky outcrop and a pleasant natural harbor below. A challenging climb up and down leads to the northernmost village, Monterosso al Mare, with a popular beach, as well a delightful old town where visitors can enjoy the 17th-century Capuchin monastery — home to a fine painting collection — and an ancient castle. No matter where you elect to halt your trek, you are sure to find a tasty lunch before boarding a boat back to Lerici. Swim in the sea, dine at Miranda and depart the next morning.

Alternative One-day Itinerary: If you only have one day in which to explore Cinqueterre,  travel by rail to Riomaggiore or drive to Portovenere and take the boat from there to Riomaggiore. After taking the walking itinerary north through as many of the villages as you wish, enjoy a meal in one of the many local restaurants before taking the boat back to Portovenere. Stop at Locanda Miranda in Tellaro (see above) for a fabulous fish dinner before returning home.

Carrara Marble Quarries: It is possible to include another local excursion in the one-day itinerary, and well worth the detour!  South of Cinqueterre lies the town of Carrara, time-honored source of an exquisite marble favored by Michelangelo and other artists. Visitors are welcome to tour the magnificent quarries from which the marble is derived. This is also a good place to buy gifts made from marble in all colors.