Gabriele checks the sugar content of the grapes to determine the proper time to harvest for a particular alcohol content.

INSIDER TIPS (continued)

LEATHER SHOES: Carlo Fagiani makes handmade shoes and leatherware in Panzano. Have your feet measured, select your pelt and style on Monday; come back on Friday and your custom-made shoes will be ready. Your feet will thank you, and your shoes will probably last a lifetime, but just in case, Carlo will keep your pattern on file so you can reorder from home.

COFFEE BAR: The melt-in-your-mouth cornetti at the Jolly Coffee Bar in Tavernelle gets our vote for the best pastries in Chianti, maybe in all of Italy!

WINE TASTING: Doorways can provide you with a vineyard map which shows the many vineyards that offer tastings. We like Castello Volpaia for wine tastings in a castle setting.

RESTAURANT: Osteria a la Piazza, near Casavecchia, serves Tuscan cuisine with a touch of glamour. (Try the grilled porcini mushrooms, if they are available.) Al Gallopapa, in Castellina, is a Michelin-rated restaurant with fabulous non-traditional Tuscan cuisine.

BUTCHER: Dario Cecchini is Panzano's most celebrated butcher. Visit his Macelleria Cecchini for the best cuts of Spanish meat to take home and cook in your villa. Or let Dario do the cooking for you. Mac Dario offers a menu for every budget: the Fast Tuscan menu (10 euros) gets you a homemade burger and roasted potatoes; the Welcome menu (20 euros) is a combination of fresh vegetables, Chianti "sushi," roast pork and meatloaf. The top-of-the-line Officina della Bistecca (60 euros) is a 3-hour grilled steak menu. Not recommended for vegetarians!