Dear
Friends,
 Kit
cooking in Tredozio | I
was invited to Tredozio a few years ago by the family of our first Italian Intern,
Beatrice Fontaine, and was captivated by the landscape of deep green valleys and
hills with splendid views. This area, just minutes from the border of Tuscany,
was in fact once part of Tuscany. To stay here is to be refreshed and renewed
by rural splendor, yet to be within striking distance of great art cities like
Florence, Ravenna and even Urbino. I
fell in love with Tredozio and was delighted to return last Thanksgiving. As we
drove from Bologna, the snow fell faster and deeper. We arrived in eight inches
of snow (and had a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner — course
after delicious course, each flavored with hand picked truffles — at a small
country restaurant, Vecchio Convento). The
next day, still snowed in, we passed the time deliciously by taking a cooking
class from Mafalda, beloved cook of Beatrice’s family for close to half
a century. I tried to copy her economy of movement, but my tagliatelle
looked more like strozzapreti. Not to worry, Mafalda put my pasta to
rights with a traditional Bolognese sauce — pure, fresh, simple and unforgettable
fare, served next to the fireplace in the beautiful family kitchen, while snow
continued to fall. Doorways
has four houses in the hills near Tredozio, all within hiking distance of the
village; one is near the lovely neighboring town of Brisighella. To my delight,
customers seem to love this area as much as I do. What
is so refreshing about this little town? It is beautiful, unassuming, and
natural, with wonderful artisans and kind, friendly people. It is safe and accessible.
Visitors are easily accepted as part of the town, especially families with children. The
day we arrived in the snow, the butcher had just closed. We wanted a little meat
for dinner, and he was happy to open his shop for us. He expertly hand sliced
paper-thin veal, talking and smiling the whole time. Niente that he had
to clean his whole shop all over again. “Just
grill it quickly,” he said. And
we did. And it was delicious. Ciao, Kit |
|

We
recently had a conversation with Liz Cillo, of Shavertown, PA, who traveled to
Emilia-Romagna with three generations of her family in June. Why
Emilia-Romagna? Liz’s nephew plays for an Italian national
baseball team in Godo, west of Ravenna. Liz said she heard the area became a center
for baseball after American soldiers stationed there during the war taught the
locals to play. Her 88-year-old mother was determined to rent a villa and to see
her grandson play ball in Italy. They were the only Americans in attendance at
the game, but it was great fun seeing the Italians enjoying the sport. Did
you find the location convenient? Emilia-Romagna is well situated
for touring, Liz said, with more to see and do than there is time. Train travel
is especially convenient; her family rode the rails from Faenza to Bologna, Ferrara,
Rome and Florence. Some of the highlights: - The
gardens at Palazzo Fantini: Magical garden belonging to the association
of Great Italian Gardens, hidden behind the facade of a 17th century residence
in Tredozio.
- Faenza:
Famous for its colorful maiolica pottery and home to a world-renown
ceramic museum.
- Ravenna:
City of mosaics, with eight buildings on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Liz
described it as clean and beautiful, with easy walking and wheelchair access.
- Ferrara:
A fairy-tale castle, a lovely cathedral, beautiful frescoes, and graffito ceramics.
“I would definitely go back to spend more time there,” Liz said.
- Dozza
(near Imola): Its buildings are painted with colorful murals
and a mural-painting competition is held there every other September.
- Castrocaro
Terme (near Forlì): Its great castle on the rock
is considered to be one of the most important in Emilia-Romagna, with a wonderful
vintage wine store inside.
- Bertinoro,
(near Cesena): Beautiful views of the Adriatic, and
one of the world’s highest ratios of restaurants to people (40 restaurants/1000
inhabitants).
(Interview
continued, click here...) |