REGIONAL CUISINE

Sometimes called the breadbasket of Italy, Emilia-Romagna is home to some of Italy’s finest and most distinctive cuisine. There’s a saying in the region – “A Parma, si mangia bene.” (“In Parma, one eats well.”) Three foods form a sort of holy trinity of culinary delights here – the balsamic vinegar of Modena, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and Parma cured ham. And all three taste great together!

Until the 19th century, Emilia and Romagna were separate Papal states. Unified in 1946, each region has its distinct culinary style. Some of the world’s best salamis come from Emilia, with prosciutto reigning as the king of cured meats. The best comes from Parma, along with Parmesan cheese. Mortadella, a far tastier distant cousin of American baloney, hails from Bologna. Emilia is famous for its fresh pasta, used to form lasagna, tagliatelle, and tortellini, which are a matter of great pride here. Their shape takes its inspiration from a woman’s navel, and men have been known to fight for their honor. According to legend, a visiting Venetian once insulted them and was beaten up by a local postman. One ended up in the hospital and the other in jail, sentenced to six months without tortellini.

Romagna is known for its feathered game and fresh water fish, and seafood is plentiful in the towns along the Adriatic coast. Fish, chicken, and seafood are roasted on a spit, along with game and other kinds of meats and sausages. Street venders sell piadine, a flat peasant bread stuffed with a savory filling. And the area near Tredozio is famous for truffles.

Emilia-Romagna boasts 18 DOC (Vino a Denominazione di Origine Controllata) wines. Most Emilian wines are bubbly, including the vivacious red Lambrusco. Romagna wines include the hearty red Sangiovese, the dry white Albana di Romagna and its semisweet bubbly version, Albana Spumante.

If you want to know which region you’re in, says one writer, simply knock on any door and ask for a drink. If you get water, it’s Emilia, but if it’s wine, you’re in Romagna. 

COOKING CLASSES IN THE PALAZZO FANTINI KITCHEN Mafalda helps out with the cooking school Palazzo Fantini is Tredozio’s most distinguished building. Dating from the 16th century, it was remodeled in 1753 by Lorenzo Fantini, whose descendants still live there and play an active role in the community. The palazzo houses a museum of country estate living and is open to the public for tours and for courtyard concerts and plays during the summer. Its beautiful formal gardens are among the great gardens of Italy. Tredozio is home to a one-star Michelin restaurant, Il Mulino di San Michele. Owner-chef Pierluigi Gentilini has created a unique cooking experience, with his own special version of “nouvelle cuisine” Italian-style. The hands-on classes, for 2-6 guests, are held in the splendid kitchen of Palazzo Fantini. Prepare, and then enjoy, a delicious meal of homemade pasta, second course, vegetable and dessert – all of the ingredients of an unforgettable gourmet holiday. Prices for a three-day cooking class range from Euro 750-1350, depending on the number of participants. The classes can be booked alone (if you are staying in another villa), or with accommodations in another property of the estate, Torre Fantini.